The Language of the Tide

Bangkok is far from the Atlantic, yet that afternoon at Scarlett, the city seemed to breathe in sync with the sea. The sky outside was all molten light, and Salomé Hervé, fourth-generation oyster farmer and brand ambassador of Huîtres Hervé from Marennes-Oléron, spoke softly of tides and patience. She talked not of luxury but of rhythm — of how the sea decides what to give and when. Before her lay eight oysters, each a different interpretation of the same saltwater score.

The overture was Boudeuse N°4, confident, full of texture. Three years in the Atlantic had given it a muscular sweetness, a crunch that caught the teeth before melting into brine. The liquor was clean, bright, almost floral, like the first breath of ocean after a storm.

Then came the BB Boudeuse N°5, a cocktail-sized echo of the first. Small, round, and quick to reveal itself. A single bite and it was gone, leaving behind a teasing minerality that vanished as fast as it appeared. I caught Salomé’s smile across the table. ‘That one,’ she said, ‘is all attitude.’

The Idéale N°2 followed, and the rhythm shifted. Broader, richer, more deliberate. Full, the flavour long and deep, with faint notes of iron. It felt like the point in the evening where you lean in to listen and focus.

Then something playful again, BB Peter N°6. Small, stubborn, and bright, as if the sea had condensed itself into a single drop. It was pure ocean: sharp, saline, faintly sweet, with the freshness of cucumber skin. It tasted of daylight, of tidepools and cold rock.

The Ronce N°3 brought a change in tone. From Ronce-les-Bains, it carried the taste of sand and current. Delicate but untamed, there was a whisper of something herbaceous I couldn’t quite place.

The Royale N°3 arrived next. Full-bodied and perfectly balanced, this was the crescendo — sweet muscle, rich liquor, a finish that lingered. By contrast, the Spéciale N°3 was quieter but deeply satisfying. There was iodine, yes, but folded into something rounder, almost nutty, a flavour that seemed to complete the thought the Royale had begun.

And then the Secrète N°3, the enigma of the lineup. There was weight to it, an echo of metal and rain, and a faint trace of sweetness that lingered just long enough to feel intentional.

By the time the last Champagne flute was poured, the sun was setting. Bangkok shimmered in the light below, while on my tongue lingered the Atlantic. Salomé stood by the window, a silhouette against the glass, her hands folded as though listening for the next tide.

Oysters, she had said, are about time. About knowing when not to take too much. About letting the sea speak. And that afternoon, high above Silom, I understood. The language of the tide needs no translation.

Get your fix

You don’t need to wait for a special tasting to hear it again. Every Tuesday from 5 p.m., Scarlett Bangkok serves freshly shucked Fine de Claire N°4 French oysters at USD 1 (THB 33++) each, while stocks last. Sourced from the Marennes-Oléron basin – the oyster capital of France – they come from the Geay family, whose five generations of oyster farming date back to 1874.

Under fourth-generation farmer Patrice Geay, the house refined its Fine de Claire range and revived historic oyster vintages, elevating the family’s reputation worldwide. Today, the legacy continues with Adrien Geay, who carries the craft forward on an international scale.

Bangkok may be far from the Atlantic, but on a Tuesday evening at Scarlett, the sea is closer than you think. Book your experience HERE.