Bangkok Dining: The China House Finds Its True Voice

With fine dining in the doldrums, squeezed by rising costs and changing tastes, The China House at Mandarin Oriental Bangkok may just have found the winning formula in its latest reinvention. I’ve eaten through all three of its iterations: first its striking red-black-white days, then its moody Shanghai art deco period, and now a sophisticated evocation of a Chaoshan fishing village in earth tones. Whether the transformation came from research or instinct, the result feels like gold.

Today diners are less interested in novelty for novelty’s sake. They want flavours they know, dishes they crave, and experiences that feel rooted yet special. The China House by Chef Huang Jing Hui – better known as Chef Fei – delivers exactly that. A two Michelin-starred chef celebrated for over three decades of blending classical Cantonese traditions with thoughtful innovation, he has shaped Mandarin Oriental restaurants from Jiang in Guangzhou to The Bay in Shenzhen. In Bangkok, his focus is on heritage and, flavour – curated rather than contrived.

For Chinese cuisine in this city, that heritage means Teochew — the food of emigrants that has, over time, become Bangkok’s benchmark. At The China House, Chef Fei elevates these traditions while layering in Cantonese classics served family-style but with a modern polish. The result bridges generations and makes the restaurant feel as relevant to today’s diners as it is respectful of tradition – a rare balance, and a genuine game changer.

The Space – The restaurant is anchored by an elegant cocktail bar, its neutral walls, amber tones, and vertical lines creating a lounge-like heart. Signature drinks such as the 5 Spice Spritz or the Chivas Green Tea set the tone. Dining areas spin off the bar, with marble-topped tables, chinoiserie china, and paired chopsticks that echo the family-style ethos. Subtle design details – beaded motifs reminiscent of fishing floats, jade accents, and wall patterns mirrored in the chargers – reinforce the Chaoshan fishing village story. Upstairs, a first-floor dining area opens to views of the bar, further centering the space. The look matches the culinary intent, offering plenty to hold your attention until the menu arrives and takes over.

The Food – If the design sets the stage, the menu seals the argument. Chef Fei doesn’t chase novelty for its own sake; instead, he leans into Teochew traditions and Cantonese classics that Bangkok has long embraced, butrefined for a polished à la carte experience and served family-style for sharing.

The first plates, set down for sharing, reveal Chef Fei’s touch with texture. Our meal began with jewel-cut celtuce, its fan-like cuts soaked with brine to deliver both flavour and crunch – a breathtakingly simple yet utterly delightful start. Other small plates on offer include golden fish skin lacquered in salted egg yolk and Teochew-style marinated foie gras, dishes that underscore the balance of indulgence and tradition. Wok-fried Lanzhou lily bulb with snow peas followed. Sweet, nutty, and lightly seasoned, it proves restraint can be its own luxury. Soups showcase precision, from double-boiled matsutake to the storied Buddha Jumps Over the Wall. My choice, hot and sour seafood soup with fish maw, was perfectly pitched: tangy without being harsh.

Cantonese barbecue provides familiar pleasure, done with flair. Crispy roast pork belly shatters into crackling and is succulent below. Sweet and sour pork pairs crisp meat with stewed pineapple for a punchier bite. Roast chicken with flax seeds carries shatter-thin skin over meat perfumed with Shaoxing wine, soy, and aromatics – the flax giving a nutty twist that feels fresh, not forced.

Clay pot stewed eggplant with salted fish is hearty, smoky and deeply umami, a nod to home cooking. Wok-fried mud crab in black pepper sauce delivers heat and sweetness in equal measure. Among the standouts: pan-seared A5 Kagoshima Wagyu striploin with dried chilli, its marbled richness cut by smoky heat, and Phuket lobster baked with garlic, the meat’s sweetness wrapped in golden crunch.

What’s striking is the range. Humble radish omelette and cabbage with dried shrimp sit comfortably beside caviar-topped jellyfish, marinated foie gras, and truffle fried rice. The menu bridges nostalgia and indulgence without tipping into excess. For dessert, of the several options, I settle for three steamed glutinous rice balls filled with caramelised peanut, proving that simplicity can carry the greatest power: quiet, satisfying, unforgettable.

The Tea Bar – Equally compelling is the tea bar, where ceremony meets curation. The list spans China’s regions, from delicate Yin Zhen white tea to smoky Imperial Lapsang Souchong and aged Da Hong Pao oolong. Each pour feels as deliberate as the wine list, an experience in its own right.

The Service – As always, Mandarin Oriental Bangkok delivers. One small moment said it all: I simply touched my plate and smiled at a server who was attentive without hovering. That subtle cue was enough – she immediately understood and quietly made the change.

Last Word – The China House has always evolved, but in this incarnation, it feels truest to itself. By drawing on Bangkok’s Teochew roots and pairing them with Cantonese classics, Chef Fei has created a restaurant that resonates across generations. Dim sum and set menus are also offered at lunch and dinner, but the soul of The China House lies in its à la carte. It’s not just about nostalgia or novelty, it’s about making tradition feel alive, and in doing so, finding relevance in a dining landscape hungry for authenticity.

Images: The Front Row and Mandarin Oriental Bangkok