Chablis Finds Harmony with Dim Sum

This pairing might come as a surprise to some – why, I don’t quite understand – but the crisp, mineral-driven elegance of Chablis, France’s iconic white winefinds a remarkable harmony with the nuanced flavours of Cantonese dim sum.

At its core, Chablis is a liquid expression of its roots. Grown in the cool, limestone-laden terroir of northern Bourgogne, each bottle captures centuries of winemaking tradition, distilled into a pure and refreshing experience. That this wine, so deeply tied to its French heritage, should find a second home in Hong Kong’s steamer-filled dim sum parlours is not surprising. TheChablis White Party 2024 -‘Unlock Chablis’ – held this month in Hong Kong byBourgogne Wine Boardgot one thinking, tasting and sipping.

“It’s the minerality,” explains Sébastien Christophe, a visiting winemaker from Domaine Christophe et Fils to Hong Kong, who sees Chablis as the ideal match for the delicate ingredients in dim sum. “The chalky soil of Chablis lends a stony character to the wines, which enhances the natural sweetness of seafood like shrimp and scallops.”

Consider the classic shrimp dumpling, its translucent skin barely concealing plump, sweet prawns. A sip of Chablis complements this dim sum staple with its zesty citrus notes and a whisper of salinity, echoing the oceanic origins of the dish. The wine’s crisp acidity cuts through the richness, leaving the palate refreshed and eager for the next bite.

For those seeking bolder flavours,Petit Chablisoffers a playful counterpoint to spicier fare, like cuttlefish dumplings with their touch of fresh chilli. The wine’s bright lime and green apple aromas temper the heat, while its clean, mineral finish elevates the seafood’s freshness. “Chablis doesn’t overpower the dish – it amplifies it,” notes Reeze Choi, a well-known Hong Kong based sommelier.

The versatility of Chablis becomes even more apparent withChablis Premier CruandChablis Grand Cru. These wines, with their richer textures and subtle oak influences, stand up to more complex dim sum creations. Imagine a king crab spring roll, its golden shell yielding to the succulent sweetness of its filling. The oak-aged complexity of a Chablis Grand Cru balances the dish’s oily decadence while underscoring the crab’s delicate flavour.

But it’s not just the food that makes this pairing so compelling. In Hong Kong, a city where French wine imports surged by 13.7% in the first half of 2024, the rise of Chablis speaks to a growing sophistication in local wine culture. Easy-going yet refined, Chablis bridges the gap between everyday enjoyment and special-occasion indulgences.

Perhaps this is why Chablis is becoming a favourite for dim sum gatherings – the wine’s ability to complement a variety of flavours – without overshadowing them – mirrors the communal spirit of Cantonese cuisine, where sharing plates is as much about connection as it is about taste.

At its best, Chablis with dim sum is more than a pairing; it’s a dialogue. It’s the ocean meeting the earth, France meeting China, and the old meeting the new—all played out on the palate. And in the hands of Hong Kong’s chefs and sommeliers, this conversation is just getting started.

PAIRING NOTES

Petit Chablis: For dim sum with lighter flavours, Petit Chablis offers a refreshing companion. Its bright citrus notes and stony character complement scallop dumplings, where the sweetness of the scallop meets a gentle crunch of carrot or celery. The wine’s zippy acidity cuts through the natural salinity of the seafood, leaving the palate clean and ready for another bite.

Chablis: The classic Chablis, with its hallmark wet stone minerality and citrus profile, pairs seamlessly with shrimp dumplings. For dishes like steamed fish, served with ginger and spring onion, Chablis’s clean, lean profile becomes indispensable. Its acidity lifts the dish, accentuating the aromatic ginger while allowing the fish’s delicate flavour to take centre stage.

Premier Cru: When it comes to more complex dim sum dishes, Chablis Premier Cru steps into the spotlight. Dumplings filled with shrimp and spinach, served with a dash of XO sauce, are a prime example. The wine’s zesty freshness complements the umami richness of the sauce, while its fuller body supports the dish’s intricate layers. Pan-fried turnip cake, with its caramelised edges and earthy notes, also finds a worthy match in Premier Cru. The wine’s subtle floral aromas and stony minerality balance the dish’s richness, offering a refined pairing that lingers on the palate.

Grand Cru: For those looking to indulge, Chablis Grand Cru offers an unparalleled experience. Take, for instance, a king crab spring roll. The Grand Cru’s refreshing citrus notes and gentle oak character enhance the sweetness of the crab, while its creamy texture balances the dish’s crisp, fried exterior.

Even dessert isn’t off-limits. The buttery custard of Cantonese egg tarts (dan tat) finds an unexpected ally in Grand Cru. The wine’s rich, nutty undertones mirror the tart’s decadence, while its acidity provides a refreshing counterpoint, ensuring the pairing remains balanced.

Time for Bangkok sommeliers to wake up too!